Doesn’t that look like a Junker Ju88? In Japanese markings? It does look very similar, and being allies at that time, one might imagine the Germans lending this design to their Asian ally. However, the Tokai bomber is actually quite a different (and smaller) machine with a totally separate development history. As Japan expanded their supply lines across the Pacific in 1942, they quickly realized that these sea lanes became quite vulnerable to American submarine packs. None of the aircraft that they had were suitable for the long range patrols needed over these sea lanes. However, the program was plagued by parts and engine shortages, stretching the work over 2 years. By the time the Tokai (“Eastern Sea”, or the allied codename “Lorna”) rolled out of their production lines in late 1944, it was too late to make a significant dent to the submarine threat, as much Japanese merchant tonnage had already been lost.
The Tokai was an interesting design, dedicated to detecting and sinking submarines. The 3-member crew operated the Type H6 airborne radar, and carried two special Type 1 Number 25 Mk 2 depth charges. Two additional drop tanks were fitted to provide the aircraft with additional patrol range. The markings I chose was for the 901st Kokutai based in Shanghai that was credited with the sinking of one US submarine near the Tsushima Straits (probably USS Trigger in March 1945). However, the opportunity to deploy the Tokai bombers at this stage of war was limited as they were slow-flying and easy prey for Allied fighter sweeps in the area. The poor defensive weaponry on the Tokai exacerbated the problem, as the single Lewis machine was hopelessly obsolete against cannon-equipped allied fighters. The aircraft was also used for reconnaissance missions and at the end, even for last-ditch kamikaze attacks.
Gallery
Construction Notes
I obtained this Fine Molds kit in Tokyo some years ago, somewhat intrigued by its resemblance to its German cousin. The parts themselves are detailed but I did see some minor sink marks. There are markings for two versions, one for the Saeki Kokutai based in the Japanese home islands and the other from the 901st Kokutai based in Shanghai. The two versions are also physically different, starting from the cockpit radar equipment and also the external antennae. My biggest complaint was that the rear machinegun was not included in the kit, although it is mentioned in the instructions as requiring a separate purchase , and the same is true with the seatbelts. I found out that those two separate kits costs as much as the kit itself, and some more. That’s not cool. Fine Molds can do better than that with such tiny parts, and in the case of the seatbelts, they could have just included some decals for those who do not wish to open up the canopy. I have a spare box full of parts, so I could make do without those “detailed kits”. As far as fit goes, most of the parts went together well, except for the clear nose section, where there was no avoiding the seam lines with the fuselage.
The cockpit area comprises of the pilot, navigator, and radio operator/radar instruments sections. As i had mentioned, one has to make up your mind as to which version and markings to make. The KMX radar used by the Saetai unit is different from the H6 airborne radar box used by the 901st Kokutai. Here, as I was making the latter version, what is seen here is the H6 cabinet. The interior cockpit and fuselage walls are painted Mitsubishi cockpit green, which is Tamiya Cockpit Green XF-71. Unlike the instructions, the radar instrument panel color should be almost matt black, based on photographs of surviving H6 units captured by the allies. I made the missing seat belts using Tamiya masking tape painted with buff and red brown details. I give the entire cockpit surface an oil wash of Payne’s Grey.
The cockpit section is then carefully encased between the fuselage halves and clamped properly.
Next major assembly are the two wing sections onto the fuselage. The top section fit lines are very good, but on the underside, there were gaps in the wing root joints about 1/16th inch wide that I filled using techniques from Tutorial 3.
While waiting for the wing root joints to dry and set, I built the two engine nacelles. The rotary engine array was first painted Tamiya NATO Black, and then highlighted with Model Masters Metalizer Steel. Once ready, the engine nacelles, and the rear stabilizers and rudder were added to the fuselage.
After I have filled any open seams, the fuselage assembly was sanded at the joints, cleaned up, and masked for painting. Since there were 2 canopies to choose from, I used the other as a sacrificial “mask cover”, attaching it temporarily with while glue. Note that the nacelles are masked with circular tape disks that I had cut with a compass.
The actual clear parts that I will be using later are kept separate from the main assembly, and painstakingly masked as well. As the “bird-cage” look of the Tokai is a prominent part of the aircraft, it is worthwhile investing the time and care to mask the 30-odd panels to get it right. The entire method of getting the masking done right is described in Tutorial 11: Masking and Painting Clear “Bird-Cage” Canopies.
I use my usual under-shading technique with NATO Black to darken the panel lines.
Next, I sprayed Model Masters Dark Yellow on the leading wing edges and also the two diagonal patterns found on the 901st Kokutai aircraft.After allowing the yellow paint to dry, I mask those areas (instead of using the supplied decals) to protect them from the other layers of paint coming. I traced the masks by cutting out, and using the decals themselves as shape templates.
Then, I coat the entire aircraft with Model Masters Metalizer Buffed Aluminum Plate, which is then buffed to a shine, and finally sealed with a clear layer of Pledge floor polish. The paint instructions allowed the builder to choose between using “silver” or Mitsubishi IJN Grey for the underside. I chose to leave it as polished aluminum plate.
For the green camouflage, the instructions said “Nakajima IJN Green”. For Tamiya, the closest would be IJN Dark Green 2 (XF-70). However, to provide the correct scale effect shade, I lightened this color with 20% Tamiya Flat White XF-2.
I then removed the masking tape covering the Dark Yellow sections. And then I sealed the entire paintwork in 2 layers of Pledge floor polish to obtain this smooth high gloss. This prepares the surface for the decals.
One set of special decals have to be applied BEFORE the antennae array can be assembled, at those are the two inverted “C” shapes at the mid-fuselage for the 901st squadron.
Decaling in process.
Once decaling is completed, another layer of Pledge floor polish is sprayed on to seal the decals in.
Once the polish is set, I remove the remaining masks, removed the sacrificial canopy, and installed the actual clear parts with their masks still on. As mentioned earlier, I noted large gaps between the clear nose section and the fuselage. I sealed these with the techniques from Tutorial 3.
The entire aircraft is then toned down and weathered with an oil wash mix of 70% Payne’s Grey + 30% Burnt Umber. The purpose is also to simulate a vertical rain streaks seen on the original aircraft left behind in China. Then the aircraft is sealed in a final satin varnish.
Once the varnish is dry, I remove the masks from the canopy parts.
So bird-cagey! Great!
I flipped the aircraft onto its back, and finish off the assembly of the undercarriage assemblies, bombs, drop tanks, and gave them a wash of Tamiya NATO Black. This way, once completed, I will not have to flip the aircraft on its back again.
Once sitting on its own three wheels, I finished the detailing bits of the antennae array, the rear machine gun, and the Red Brown (XF-64) propellers. Then with pastel chalk exhaust marks on the twin engines, this Tokai is ready for its maritime patrol.
And talking about that missing rear machinegun: since they were using the same Lewis machine as WW1 aircraft, I happened to have one spare from a Russian biplane. By just changing the gun stock from the rifle wooden stock to the IJN spade handle, I have the exact part needed. Never throw away useful sprues. You never know when they come in handy.
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